So you’re getting into film photography for the first time, and you’re just about to pull the trigger on your first purchase. But you’re scared of buying a 40-year old camera that could potentially not work. How do you ensure that you’re buying a film camera that functions properly? You’re in luck because after buying a bunch of used cameras in the last couple of months (thanks, quarantine), I’ve more or less caught onto what to look out for. And I’ve made a lot of mistakes to get to this point. For the most part, this guide pertains well to 35mm cameras as well as entry-level medium format cameras.
Buying it In-Person
So we’re in the middle of a pandemic at the moment, but as long as you and the seller are wearing masks, you’re probably OK to buy one in-person (maybe). In regular circumstances, I would recommend you do indeed buy a used film camera in-person, particularly because if it doesn’t work, you know the face you got it from and know where to return it. You also do not have to go through the hassle of filing complaints on a website and then having to go to your post office to mail it back. Anyways, if you’re buying a used film camera in-person, these are the steps to ensure your camera works.
The Battery
Film cameras from the 80s onward typically on relied on a battery for the shutter to function (such as the ever so popular Canon AE-1). If you are looking to buy a used film camera that requires a battery, make sure there’s already one inside of the camera so you can properly test it out before making your purchase. Otherwise, you won’t be able to do the next few steps I am about to outline.
I would recommend, however, when buying a used film camera, to gravitate towards fully mechanical cameras that do not use batteries. For me, this is why I returned my original AE-1 and instead bought a Canon FTb. Many cameras that require batteries have electronic components and magnets that can go bad and require servicing to fix. However, many mechanical issues with a fully mechanical camera can often be fixed on your own. The only downsides to buying a fully-mechanical camera are that they are likely a little older, fully manual (if you are comfortable using manual exposure, this doesn’t matter very much), and their shutter timings are not always perfect.
Testing Shutter Speeds
After ensuring that the camera can at least fire off the shutter, test out every single shutter speed, the camera has available. The first AE-1 that I bought could not fire any slower than 1/125s, which was an absolute pain. Had I fired every shutter speed when I first saw the camera, I would not have made this mistake. A camera that fails to fire properly at every shutter speed is not a camera to get.
Testing Even Shutter Exposure
After returning my AE-1 because of its shutter problem, I then picked up a fully mechanical FTb. This time I fired off every shutter speed, but when I came home and shot a roll, I realized it had another problem, uneven shutter exposure. Essentially, cameras have two curtains, a first and a second. Uneven shutter exposure occurs when the second curtain catches up too quickly to the first shutter curtain, meaning that some sides of the film are receiving more or less light than others.
The way to test for this is to open up the back of the film camera and remove the lens. Point the camera body at a bright area or a light source and then proceed to fire the camera off at every shutter speed. When you look through the shutter, you should see the light come across completely evenly at every speed, which means the entire piece of film will be exposed to the same amount of light when you finally put a roll in.
At this point in time, it’s also good to check if the shutter curtain has any holes in it as well which will immediately ruin your images. A hole in the shutter curtain is a quick and easy NO.
But luckily for me, the uneven shutter exposure was an easy fix on the Canon FTb by just adjusting the shutter curtain timings when I opened up the bottom of the camera. But it’s good practice anyway to find cameras without this problem since this may not always be an easy fix.
Listen for Shutter Squeak
This is not really that big of an issue, but if you fire off that used film camera and it sounds really squeaky or mushy, then the camera requires a few drops of lubricant in the right areas to remove it. Usually, this is a problem, again, with the Canon A-series of cameras, which, if I’m honest, I don’t really think I would recommend to anyone.
I’d probably stay away from cameras with shutter squeak in case it’s tied to a bigger problem that isn’t a couple of drops of lube. But if I can return the camera to the seller and I have some machine oil on hand, the camera might be an OK purchase.
The Aperture Works Properly
Aside from the shutter speed working, the aperture properly working is also important. It’s actually more of a lens issue than a camera body issue but is nonetheless still vital. If you put the camera at its narrowest aperture, usually f/16 or f/22 on any given lens, set the camera to a slow shutter speed, maybe even bulb, and then fire off the shutter, the aperture in the lens should close down to just a narrow hole. If this happens, then usually the aperture on the lens functions properly, and the camera and lens are making the communication possible to do so. It’s also just good practice to try every aperture out just to make sure. Another thing I like to do is test out a camera’s “stopped down mode” to also see the aperture working properly without having to fire off the shutter. Luckily, if both the aperture and shutter are working properly, it’s likely that the camera you want to buy is a pretty good one.
Film Advance and Shutter Count
It’s a pretty basic thing, but make sure that the film advance lever is working properly. You should be able to advance it and then fire off its shutter, but if you’ve already been testing out the shutter speeds and apertures, then it’s probably fine. Also, make sure that the counter is advancing every time you advance the lever. Then, make sure the counter resets to zero when you open the back door of the camera. I remember that I refused to buy a certain Mamiya 645 because it wouldn’t reset when the back door was open. For this specific camera, although you could reset the counter manually, the issue usually a red flag that other issues with the camera are eminent. I cannot comment, however, if the same count reset issue is equally as problematic on other cameras. I would not, however, purchase a used camera with a shutter advance or shutter count issue.
Glass and Other Optics
Ensure the lens is pretty clear of any scratches, dust, fungus, haze, or any other weird blemishes. In all actuality, a few specs on dust around the front element does not affect your final image, so any minor dust is typically perfectly fine. But any other odd discolorations on a lens may indeed affect image quality and are a good sign to stay away from that film camera and lens purchase.
Also, make sure that the viewfinder is clear and bright. Again, a few specs of dust are fine, and although any anomalies on a viewfinder don’t affect the final image, it’s still good to have a well-kept viewfinder since you will be looking through it a lot.
Light Seals
This is more or less the final step to ensuring that the film camera you’re buying in person functions properly. Light seals are essentially those foam strips you find across the back of the camera when you open up the door. The best-used film cameras to buy are the ones where the seller has reassured you new light seals have been put in place. Otherwise, make sure the light seals are not crumbling off and still have some “bounce” to them.
In all reality, old light seals aren’t so bad if you’re getting a good deal on a camera because they’re actually quite cheap and quick to fix. But it’s still nice to have new light seals anyway. Usually, the seller changing out the light seals for you is an indication that the camera is being well taken care of by the seller.
The Light Meter Works (Maybe)
If your camera takes a battery, then point your camera around to see if the light meter works. But honestly, a lot of light meters don’t work, and usually that’s okay. Many mechanical cameras that use a battery just for a light meter probably have hard to find batteries, some of which may now be illegal. Honestly, I’ve never cared for the state of a light meter on any camera, and bringing around an external light meter or using an app on my phone works perfectly fine. I don’t think the functioning of a light meter is a make or break situation at all unless you want to be using it.
Film Tested
Finally, ask the seller if they’ve tested the camera with a roll of film prior to selling it to you. This is more or less the final indicator that the camera you’re going to buy is going to work fine.
Buying Online
Now buying online is a totally different beast altogether, but seeing as I’ve bought three perfectly functioning cameras off of eBay, it’s really not as bad as you think as long as you can find the right sellers.
Find Reputable Sellers
The most obvious choice for a reputable seller is KEH, Adorama, or B&H, which are upfront and sometimes overly conservative about the quality of the camera, give a fair price, and have good and easily accessible return policies.
Otherwise, if you’re on a site like eBay, find sellers like Robert’s Camera who are photography stores that sell on the website. I bought a QL-17 from them, which came with new light seals and has worked perfectly since day one. Designated camera stores on eBay are usually a really good bet when buying the film cameras you want.
Buying cameras from Japanese sellers also seems not too bad either. Japanese sellers usually give a very fair price (although they have some shipping costs), and they are very upfront about the quality of what you’re buying. However, this probably takes longer than buying domestically, and if you spend too much on a camera, like more than $800, you could have some import duties.
But sometimes, you find the average Joe selling a camera. The first thing you want to make sure of is that they have good reviews from other buyers, and you’re probably also going to want to see a few other keywords I’m going to list in the next couple of sections.
Film Tested
Like in-person, this means the seller has put a roll through the camera and know that the images look fine. This is the biggest indicator that a used film camera works just fine, especially if the seller also includes a few of the test images to view.
Clean Glass and Optics
Just like buying in person, make sure the online seller notes the quality of the glass. Usually, a few specs of dust is really no issue, but I do stay away from any indication of fungus, haze, or separation.
Shutter Speed Tested
Every shutter speed works. I wouldn’t buy a camera that can’t do this.
New Light Seals
Again, not the worst thing in world if the light seals aren’t mentioned as being replaced since it’s very easy to replace yourself, but new light seals is always a good indication from a seller.
Stay Away From
Disregard any sellers who don’t understand how the camera works and cannot comment on the specifics of how the camera functions. Sellers who have either too vague of a description or do not have a lot of reviews are not people I would buy from. I would only take a chance on these sellers only if and maybe only if this camera is dirt cheap.
Things to Keep in Mind on any Marketplace
The Camera is Returnable
Even if everything in a camera seems to work perfectly, something could go wrong. Used film cameras can be a couple of decades-old after all. You want to make sure you have a plan when things don’t go right regardless of where you buy this camera.
Your First Roll is not Going to be Great
The first roll you shoot on your used film camera is not going to be perfect. It’s totally OK. You probably will have an accidental double exposure or a few light leaks. My Mamiya 645 shot three accidental double exposures on my first roll with it. All it took to relieve this was to exercise and lube the film insert, and it was fine. A lot of minor but fixable problems will happen on your first roll, and that’s completely normal. It’s only when you cannot fix these problems and your next rolls come out poorly that you may want to issue a return and refund.
Don’t Get Ripped Off
Some camera stores will try to sell you a beginner SLR for like $300. What? Don’t buy film cameras at stores that sell at double the cost of what you see elsewhere. They’ll try to tell you how good these cameras have been taken care of, but it’s really no better than anywhere else. Most film cameras will have to be serviced occasionally anyway, so don’t buy a Canon AE-1 at double what you see it going for on eBay.
But Also Spend a Little Extra for Reassurance
Don’t pay double, but also understand that an extra $20-$40 from a trustworthy source is worth it over a sketchy purchase. This is an investment, after all, and a bad film camera is worth very little. Spending a couple of extra dollars to know that your camera is coming from someone who has taken good care of it, knows how it works, and is willing to issue a refund for any reason at all is a deal worth taking, in my opinion.
A Film Camera Only Needs to Do a Few Specific Things Correct
The shutter needs to fire and return. The aperture blades need to create the correct opening. The film needs to advance. The camera should be light sealed. This is the essence of a working film camera because, at the end of the day, it’s your film roll that the light lands on. A film camera is really nothing more than a mechanical device that lets light hit your roll of film. If it’s doing this properly, this is the golden rule in knowing your camera works OK.
So go have fun, and buy your first film camera. It’s really stressful, I know. But shooting on analog is like no experience that digital can replicate.